Lost in Plovdiv

Stela Mantareva/ @explovdiv

To say that Stella is lost and in love with Plovdiv would be an understatement. She simply blossoms in our city, and with the true passion of an explorer, she searches every corner for hidden stories.

When she arrived in the city under the hills some time ago, she constantly welcomed guests and eagerly guided them through her favorite streets and spots. Eventually, she created her personal route, straight from her heart, for all who want to experience Plovdiv beyond the most popular tourist locations.

We will let this story be told in first-person narrative, so you can feel the excitement of a woman who only sees the beauty underneath Plovdiv’s hills!

I greet you with “the best coffee in the city.” At least, that’s what the sign  in front of the tiny door of “Dyukana” on “Abadzhijska” Street number 6 says, and quite a few locals and visitors of the city will back this up. With over 260 reviews on Google, you’ll understand the enthusiasm once you chat with the owner and try the drink of the day. A heads-up: you’ll probably end up sipping your coffee on the steps by the door. It’s somehow sweeter that way. Then look up!

Remember this street. At number 8A is my favorite wine bar, “Trilogie Maison du Bon-Vivant”. They offer a selection of Old World wines, mainly from Spain and Italy, most of which you’ve probably never heard of. No problem — you can trust the owners’ recommendations completely. Pair a burrata salad or cheese platter with a bottle that captures the rich history of Rioja,  and enjoy them in the heart of the oldest city in Europe.

Let’s head toward the Mosque. While on “Abadzhijska” Street, you should see it to the left.

There’s not much to say about the Mosque itself, except that I DON’T recommend the café there. But there are rumors that the “Rosa” Burgers across the street are quite good.

Now you’re at the square dividing the Main Street into “Malka Glavna” and “Goliama Glavna”.

But it’s not the time for main streets yet.

We've arrived at my favorite quarter in Plovdiv, starting with “Hristo G. Danov” Street.

An interesting fact: Danov introduced a revolutionary system of education in schools—he banned physical punishment. Yes, using sticks to hit students as a form of punishment was not only normal but encouraged in schools. Even more important to me, which I as a feminist cannot omit mentioning (even though there is a risk of me being annoying), is the fact that Danov focused on educating girls as full members of society. This was around 1850-60.

He devoted his life to enlightenment and became Bulgaria’s first publisher and bookseller. He was orphaned at nine, lived in poverty, was persecuted, misunderstood, and yet he changed the world for us all.

At the beginning of the street, to the left, you’ll see “Monroe” Restaurant. Take a detour around the corner. Have you found the dog? Yes, a dog. If you find it, let me know what is the story of a forever dog in the middle of nowhere.

Let’s follow its path…both literally and figuratively.

Here it is: The House with the Nymphs.

On “Hristo G. Danov” Street 17, cross to the opposite sidewalk and admire one of the most beautiful facades in Plovdiv. Not in the ideal state I’d like to see it but nonetheless historically and architecturally magnificent.

The seven female figures, incorrectly called nymphs, are actually caryatids (from the city-state of Karyes, which once helped to set Athens on fire and later lost the battle). The women of Karyes, immortalized in art and legend, were punished to bear the weight of shame, supporting it with both hands.

On this facade, we see a unique depiction of caryatids, each holding a bouquet of flowers in one hand. In my imagination, the architect absolved them, relieving some of their burden, and in this forgiveness, he welcomes those who look up. A bouquet for those who can appreciate beauty.

This house is brimming with symbolism and history. I could stand in front of it for at least an hour to share what I know—just a tiny fraction of all the silent stories these walls have witnessed. By the way, there’s an actual well in the basement, and part of the ground floor extends into the neighboring building.

The house’s architect, Emilia Favretto, or Mrs. Sabeva, was Italian. She was one of very few (I might even say the only one from that century) female architects. She also designed the facade of the Plovdiv Theater. Settling in Plovdiv around 1900, she did much for the culture and life of this city and beyond.

In this home, her husband, Atanas Sabev, founded the first private trade school.

Sabeva also had a deep love for opera, dreaming of establishing an opera house in the city—a dream that remains unfulfilled. Plovdiv is still the only city in Bulgaria with an opera company but no dedicated building. Its performances are held at the “Boris Hristov” House of Culture.

As much as I hate to leave this story behind, I’m eager to invite you onward. At number 21 stands the Italian House. Owned by Eduardo Vaccaro, son of Carlo Vaccaro, one of the wealthiest tobacco producers of his time. The story of this family is also very interesting. Eduardo is remembered as “the glorious Vaccaro”, responsible for opening Bulgaria’s first modern cinema - the “Modern Theater” in Sofia, launching the first tram lines in Bulgaria alongside a powerhouse, he also founded the first cartel, controlling over two-thirds of Bulgaria’s cigarette sales back in those days. It’s said that during the war, Carlo purchased large quantities of grain to help feed starving Bulgarians in Northern Bulgaria. And Eduardo is the product of a successful marriage between a Bulgarian and an Italian. This is what I know of him.

And the hopes kindled by the new doorbell offer false promises, because… no one lives in this house.

Our walk continues to the next turn at “St. Cyril and Methodius” Street. We start with a willingness to get lost.

I admit I haven’t yet uncovered all the family histories and urban legends that lie scattered across the hill. But I think it wouldn’t hurt to make them up together!

Now I’ll leave you to choose: will you take “Antim I” Street, or follow me down a tiny street with a grand name? “Lady Strangford” Street is exactly 342 steps long. I challenge you to count them. Is it long enough to contain her huge heart? I don’t know.

Who is this lady? I’ll only give you a slight hint: Ivan Vazov, the famed poet, was deeply moved by her in his youth and even dedicated a poem to her. More importantly, Lady Strangford was one of the first women travelers, married under unusual circumstances to a Bulgarian diplomat, changing Bulgaria’s history with her compassion.

At number 21, don’t miss the towering Evangelical Congregational Church, a fascinating Neo-Gothic structure, built by Rhodope craftsmen according to a design created by architect Georgi Fingov.

It might sound confusing, but could you take a right turn onto “Bozhidar Zdravkov” Street? Then turn left onto a steeper street. Ultimately, one thing matters: reaching the Clock Tower atop Sahat Tepe by sunset.

Why then?

You’ll see Plovdiv bathed in gold. It’s worth it!

While you’re there, take a moment to appreciate the Clock Tower, as well. Among the oldest clock towers in Europe, it’s been there since Roman times. It has been restored after a fire. The hill it stands on is Danov Hill, though everyone knows it as Sahat Tepe. This name comes from the Turkish word for “clock”.

Now look - it is time for dinner.

You’re close to Kapana.

I won’t recommend a specific restaurant; I’m sure you’ll find your place. But you know, Kapana has other hidden gems besides “Pavaj”, which you’re likely heading for. Recently, I discovered “Festival” Restaurant, right next to my favorite “Green Library” Café, which I’ll take you to next time.